Pobling Sonic Pore Cleanser by Habalan

I recently bought a new facial toy. It is Pobling Sonic Pore Cleanser. I bought it during a Beauty Fair that was held in Suntec Convention Centre. I had the urge to buy directly from the Habalan Booth as it is the only way I could ensure it is authentic. Another blog has kindly illustrated how to differentiate between the real and the fake.

This is the newer design (aka RolliB) and is priced at $25, compared to the previous generation which is priced at $20. Although the design of the holder is changed, but the micro fine brushes are the same as the previous. You can get the refill for $10. This is much cheaper than Clarisonic. One of the difference between Pobling and Clarisonic is the mechanism of cleaning. Pobling is based on sonic vibrations (10,000 per minute), which Clarisonic combines rotating with sonic frequency. I have tried Clarisonic before but I find it rather invasive as i had some minor outbreak after. Pobling is very soft on the face. Before using this, I would first use my cleansing gel/milk to remove the bulk of the make up. After which, I will add some more cleanser on the brush to clean the remaining traces of make up. In the past, I would assume I cleanse thoroughly from the first cleansing. But I can noticeably see my brush turn slight brownish after using the brush to cleanse my face the second round. I realize that my usual regime was not sufficient to remove the makeup on my face.

I will diligently use this brush and update subsequently on its effects on acne.

Assess Acne Type & Conduct Self Remedy

The first step to treating acne is to identify the type of acne and the stage it is at. It can be broadly classified to White Head and Blind .

White Heads

White Heads are blocked pores with a layer of dead skin over the opening. There is a small amount of inflammation and not advisable to squeeze when it is still forming. Apply some lemon and baking soda paste to the spot to first dry it. Drying it significantly does not make it disappear completely, but it reduces its impact and lifespan. Scrubs should not be used as it can irritate and cause micro damage. Once there is no inflammation (no redness or tenderness or ‘shiny look’) and the whitehead is more than the redness, it is nearly time. It is the right time when the whitehead looks like it's bulging out of the skin, the best way to rid of it is to pop it in the right way.

Home Remedy (Lemon + Baking soda):

1. Add lemon juice to baking soda to form a thick paste
2. Wait till paste stops sizzling (neutralisation reaction is complete) 
3. Apply paste to just pimple area and not surrounding skin 
4. After the paste dries, keep it on for at least another 30mins or overnight for actual drying effect 
5. Remove past by brushing with tissue, splash cool water 
6. Rub Aloe Vera or Vaseline to help with healing

Right way to pop: 

1. Use head to draw the blockage to the surface of skin and open pore 
2. Hold a cotton ball soaked in hot water for a minute on the tip of the white head, avoid surrounding skin 
3. Break only the very top layer of the skin (there should be no blood or pain) and pus will start to ooze out by itself 
4. Apply pressure from both sides and gently push in a rolling-up motion. The downwards pressure is created so as to force the “contents” to the top till no more pus comes out. 
5. Do not continue to squeeze till blood is produced as this leads to bruises and scarring. 
6. Cold a cold cotton ball with some pressure on area for a couple of minutes to stop any bleeding and swelling 
7. Leave it alone to heal and dap some Vaseline to aid healing.

Blinds

Blinds are pimples with no head. Inflammation is deep within the skin. The early stage blind is a red and sore lump. Best thing is to ICE it (5 mins with 10mins interval for an hour) to reduce blood flow to the area, reduce swelling and pain. Increase water and fruit food intake. Apply some Tea Tree Oil to reduce inflammation.

Home Remedy (Tea Tree oil):

1. Use 100% pure tea tree oil, e.g. Thursday Plantation
2. Apply neat and small amount, directly on the blemish (use a cotton tip) - tea tree can cause dryness, flaking, redness on normal skin 
3. Just some aloe gel or Vaseline to improve its staying power.

The later stage is forming a head (aim to draw it to a head and treat on surface). Use a hot cotton wool and hold it on top of the spot, on off for a time to draw the pimple out. Once it turns to a white head, follow the treatment as above.

Diet change

1. Cut out dairy completely for 2-3 weeks
2. Take vitamins by drinking fruits and vege smoothie 
3. Take some omega 3 (stabilize hormones), probiotics (to clear the gut) 
4. Exercise to sweat it out (clear the pores) but make sure face is clean before exercising

Acne outbreak after changing my makeup set

How many of you have experienced an acne outbreak after changing your makeup set?

Recently, I changed from Clinique to Laneige when my Clinique makeup foundation has finished. I began using Laneige's BB Cushion. Initially, I love it. With the special sponge, the application of makeup on my face was pretty easy and smooth. Little do I know that it has already began to clog my pores. A few days later, some acne spots started to develop and I thought it was because of lack of sleep or water. So I started to drink more water. I did not realize that it could be due to my makeup and I continued to use it. Then, more and more acne develops. I started to panic and used many alternatives such as tea tree oil, moisturizing face mask, salicyclic acid, etc, but not much of use. 

 

One day, I decided to switch back to my old makeup foundation and I realized there were no new acne developed. However, the current active acnes are still around and it will take time for them to subside. I am rather upset and kind of regret changing my makeup brand to Laneige as it is not suitable for sensitive skin. What a bad start to a new year...

Is there a right way to use Stieva A?

Stieva-A is a tradename for Retin-A, aka Tretinoin. A simple google search of any of these words "Stieva A", "Retin-A" or "Tretinoin" will lead to various articles on how this chemical treats cystic acne.

Cystic acne occurs due to clogged pore which leads to build up of oil/sebum within the pore which gets inflamed with bacteria. See diagram on the right.

How Stieva-A works is that it opens up clogged pores and increases the production of skin cells in the outermost layer of the skin (epidermis). But it does not remove acne. All it does is to make the "already inflamed" skin surfaces up and reduce changes of other pores being clogged.

There are two downsides to Stieva-A:

1. It stimulates both the healthy and inflamed skin which can cause the skin near the cysts to generate more sebaceous glands that produces oily sebum. This results in new ports clogging as old cysts open. 
2. It thins the skin before thickening the skin. This results in the skin more prone to sunburn and sensitive. 

I am trying to make sense to the creams which Niks Maple Clinic provided and here are some of the synergistic relationships.

1. Glycolic Acid + Stieva-A: Glycolic acid acts as a skin peel which increases the absorption of Stieva A into the skin
2. Clindamycin (Antibiotics) + Stieva-A: Using antibiotic will get rid of 10-20% more pimples by killing acne bacteria as they are being released from deep pores

In the past, I screwed up a lot by being really greedy with using Stieva-A, thinking that applying a thick layer, twice daily and 7 days a week will increase the changes to speed up recovery. However, I was so wrong. My skin got really dry, flaky and burning sensation.

Understanding the mechanism of how Stieva-A helps to understand the best way to use it. Since Stieva-A does not cure acne and simply opens up clogged pores, with possibility that leads to generation of more sebaceous glands, it is important to apply on clean skin and with topical antibiotics to reduce chances of healthy skin being inflammed. It is not advisable to apply too thick a layer as the skin takes time to unclog the pores and stimulate new cells to grow. A very small amount and thin layer will do. The reason why it is recommended to be applied at night is that it is chemically unstable and degrades when exposed to sunlight, resulting in ineffectiveness.

The human skin has 4 key physiological loss-prevention processes to moisturize the skin.

1. Sebum production - Sebum has high triglyceride content which acts as a emollient that reduces Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) 
2. Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) production - NMF has high free amino acid content which acts as humectant to hold on or draws moisture. The amino acids are produced when the proteins in the skin's stratum corneum are broken down. If NMF occurs, it means that your skin is already in quite a bad state.
3. Desquamation - Natural skin shedding which happens when the skin's stratum corneum is well hydrated. However abnormal desquamation is not good either.
4. Formation of intercellular lipids as skin barriers - Intercellular lipids have high ceramides which prevent TEWL and loss of NMF. 

I found this diagram which very well depicts the regeneration of new skin. It takes about a month for cells to multiply and make their way through the various layers of the skin to the epidermis layer. During the process, dead skin cells that are awaiting to be exfoliated can be prone to breakouts if it clogs the skin, along with sebum and bacteria. Besides fighting excessive "oiliness", it is important to keep dead skin cells from collecting on the skin and keep the underlying skin cells moisturized for natural desquamation.

Besides advising "less is more" for Stieva-A, the last advice I have is to be patient. It takes time for skin to go back to healthy state. Drink more water and be diligent in skin care routine.

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5 stars to Vichy Normaderm range products

It is my first time using Vichy  products and I kinda love the Normaderm range, particularly Normaderm Tri-Active Anti-imperfection Hydrating Care and Normaderm Hylauspot. 

These two products have some key ingredients that are for targeting sensitive acne prone skin: 

1) salicyclic acid - correct abnormal shedding of cells, unclog pores (but does not have effect on sebum production and does not kill bacteria)

2) glycolic acid (peeling the skin to remove brown spots)

3) LHA or lipohydroxy acid (similar to salicyclic acid, exfoliates and unblock pores)

4) Glycerin - humectant

5) Silicons - emollient

6) Sodium hyaluronate (present in Hylauspot, anti-ageing)

What I like about it is that is has a very light feel and fast absorbing.  There is a cooling sensation that somewhat tames the acne and preventing it from further erupting. The exfoliating ingredients are pretty effective as my skin does peels lightly on those areas i apply the Hylauspot. Depending on the "stage" of acne, for some spots, it purges the pus and pimple head, and for others, it shrinks it till it retreats (about 3-5 days). 

I have also bought the Aqualia Thermal UV. While it seems to spread easily and absorb easily, I found it difficult to apply my liquid foundation (Clinique Even Better) on it. The makeup seems to become cakey, which does not usually happen when I use the sunscreen. 

Vichy Normaderm Tri-active: ***** (5 stars)

Vichy Normaderm Hylauspot: ***** (5 stars)

Vichy Aqualia Thermal UV: ** (2 stars)

Left: Triactiv
Centre: Aqualia Thermal UV
Right: Hylauspot 

Far left: Triactiv (without spreading)
Second to the left: Triactive (after spreading once)
Second to the right: Hylauspot (without spreading)
Far right: Hylauspot (after spreading once)

Effects of coffee on acne

Though I am not a coffee addict (I only drink once a while), I enjoy drinking coffee. Especially with milk and sugar. But I noticed some side effects whenever I drink coffee, i.e. I will develop new acne bumps. Devin Mooers and Paula M both wrote articles on whether coffee triggers acne. There are quite a number of bads. Milk, Sugar, Mycotoxins, giving rise to hormonal imbalance, inhibition of glucose metabolism, etc.

There are also counter research being done to show that coffee may reduce acne as it reduces insulin which caffeine does the opposite. Does it mean that decaf coffee (Black and without sugar) is the way to go?

PPP laser clinic

I believe I was one of the initial clients of PPP laser clinic. What attracted me to it was how laser medical facials was made so affordable and I do not have to spend 1.5hrs lying in a facial salon to "clean" my skin.  When I first signed on the package with PPP, it costs about $50 per trip, the nurses will help me clean my face before the doctors start to perform the microdermabrasion before the IPL. The process takes less than 10 mins which I can easily afford the time. As the client base grew, it became less and less an enjoyable experience. There were many "cuts", in order to save time. But I believe the other reason is to cut costs. Overall there were 5 points which I didn't like.

1) Nurses stop cleaning the make up on your face. Instead, you have you do it yourself with the cleansing towel they provided.

2) Nurses stop putting on the conductive gel for the IPL. In order to avoid burning the skin, the doctors does the IPL at some distance away from your skin. I found the light very irritating and I would often tear unconsciously after the IPL even though I am wearing the goggles. It was uncomfortable and I would always ask for a wet cotton to be placed between the googles and my eyes. But still, it is still not very effective.

3) At the end of the treatment, we have to put on the moisturizer on our own, which previously the nurses will do so after they clean the conductive gel away.

4) There are variations in service level between the doctors. Some doctors were more passionate on helping. Some doctors were just going through the motion as if it is a part time job for them.

5) The queue is relatively long. I always spend more time waiting then the treatment itself. The waiting time could be as long as an hour. Then again, it depends on location and weather.

What I like is that the nurses do not hard sell the package unlike the facial salons and has progressed to adopt a point system which one could redeem other types of treatments.

However, I have since stopped going as I don't feel as enjoyable. While it has some effects on the skin, I do not want to cure it at the expense of my eyes which is constantly "exposed" to IPL light. I do not want to develop Photokeratitis or Cataracts. I treasure my eyes more and will never wish to be blinded by regular IPL sessions.

Ma Chérie Moisture Shampoo (Non-sponsored)

I am not a beauty blogger and hence I do not get sponsored. Sometimes when I read online for reviews of products, I am quite skeptical as most of them are sponsored and naturally they will write positive reviews. I am not sponsored, in fact a friend of mine and I analysed this product because of our project on Shampoo.

Personally, I have been using this product for a few months. Previously I tried many other products, which include Sukin Shampoo, which I blogged about in my previous posting. I like Ma Chérie Moisture Shampoo and Conditioner as it has this unique fragrance. The product range is developed by Shiseido and the signature ingredients is Honey Gelee, Champagne, Hydroxyethylurea and Inositol. There are 32 ingredients listed and costs about $2.521 per 500ml, but retails at about $20.50. It is not unusual for the price difference as consumers are paying for marketing, distribution, etc.

A closer look at the selection of surfactant, Ma Chérie uses amphoteric surfactants such as sodium cocoamphoacetate and sodium taurine cocoyl methyltaurate, in combination with traditional SLS. Amphoteric surfactants are supposedly milder than anionic surfactants, but I still feel the cleansing and foaming effect due to SLS.

There several conditioning agents and humectants used such as Arginine, locust bean hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, polyquaterium-10, sorbitol, gly\utamic acid, dimethicone, ammonium lactate, butylene glycol, etc. All in all, these ingredients add up to the claim of "Moisturizing". My hair scalp releases less sebum and my hair smells better due to the nice fragrance. One thing I wish is that the fragrance could last longer. But based on the profile of the fragrance (floral), which is a middle note the scent typically last for less than an hour.

Coping with Rosacea

There are several triggers of rosacea. To name a few, the triggers include alcohol, chocolate, cold weather, facial scrubs, hot baths, saunas, hot beverages, spicy food and sun exposure. I read several forums and articles (e.g. livestrong.com,  and I have summarized the items below. Although I may list some of the items to avoid, I clearly understand how difficult it is to abstain from them. I love spicy sour kimchi soup and it will be terrible to totally not be able to have them. But of course, being aware of the triggers can moderate your intake which will limit the outbreaks of rosacea.

Food To Avoid

1. Spicy Food - red/white/black pepper, chili
2. Sweet Snacks - chocolates, sugary drinks such as bubble tea, aspartame (artificial sweetener) 
3. Hot Drinks - hot tea, hot coffee (let drinks cool down is a way to mitigate)
4. Alcohol
5. Citrus Fruits - pineapples 
6. Dairy products - cheese

Food To Take More

1. Anti-inflammatory - almonds, dark leafy greens
2. Anti-oxidants - grapes, apples, beetroot, broccoli, onions, green-tea
3. Omega 3 Fatty Acids - salmon, sardines

Products To Avoid

1. Irritants - fragrance 
2. Facial scrub
3. Oil-based make-up
4. Toners that contain astringents or alcohol
5. Hydroxy acids (while it may be good for acne, it is not good for rosacea)

Products To Use

1. Mild facial cleanser/soap (wash gently without scrubbing or rubbing) - Livestrong.com indicated "New Jersey dermatologist Dr. Coyle S. Connolly recommends over-the-counter cleansers Cetaphil and La Roche-Posay, while noted skin care expert Paula Begoun gives high ratings to Olay foaming face wash for sensitive skin, the B.Kamins Booster Blue Rosacea Cleanser and the Pevonia Botanica Rosacea line. Purpose Gentle Cleansing Wash and Aveeno Ultra-Calming Foaming Cleanser are also often recommended by dermatologists." I am using Nivea Baby Gentle Head-to-toe wash which is very mild and hypoallergenic to the skin and has natural chamomile and soothing bisabolol. It is free of parabens, alcohol, is skin-friendly pH and makes my skin feel clean and soft after use. 
2. Moisturizers (make sure to keep moisture content on skin >10%) - I use Niks Maple Clinic's Skin repair cream (~ $91.50 for 4.4oz) and Intensive Barrier Repair Cream (~ $45 for 4oz). I love using these as there are no tinging feeling. I kinda love them. The differences in the prices is because the former is made in the US and the latter from Korea. The Skin Repair Cream contains Aloe Barbadensis Leaf that soothe the skin. The Intensive Barrier Repair Cream contains glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) which reduces inflammation and soothes irritation, stimulates adrenal gland to remove bacteria that causes rosacea bumps. 
3. Oil-free Sunblock (at least SPF 15) 
4. Oil-free and Noncomedonegic makeup (list of comedonegic and irritant that you should avoid in products.)

Despite all these measures, Rosacea can be cyclical, such as flaring up before/during menstruation or when one is stressed. Taking flaxseed oil supplements may be good measure because not only it regulates the menstrual cycle and balances hormonal levels, it contains essential fatty acids that contribute to healthy glowing skin and reduces inflammations.