5 stars to Vichy Normaderm range products

It is my first time using Vichy  products and I kinda love the Normaderm range, particularly Normaderm Tri-Active Anti-imperfection Hydrating Care and Normaderm Hylauspot. 

These two products have some key ingredients that are for targeting sensitive acne prone skin: 

1) salicyclic acid - correct abnormal shedding of cells, unclog pores (but does not have effect on sebum production and does not kill bacteria)

2) glycolic acid (peeling the skin to remove brown spots)

3) LHA or lipohydroxy acid (similar to salicyclic acid, exfoliates and unblock pores)

4) Glycerin - humectant

5) Silicons - emollient

6) Sodium hyaluronate (present in Hylauspot, anti-ageing)

What I like about it is that is has a very light feel and fast absorbing.  There is a cooling sensation that somewhat tames the acne and preventing it from further erupting. The exfoliating ingredients are pretty effective as my skin does peels lightly on those areas i apply the Hylauspot. Depending on the "stage" of acne, for some spots, it purges the pus and pimple head, and for others, it shrinks it till it retreats (about 3-5 days). 

I have also bought the Aqualia Thermal UV. While it seems to spread easily and absorb easily, I found it difficult to apply my liquid foundation (Clinique Even Better) on it. The makeup seems to become cakey, which does not usually happen when I use the sunscreen. 

Vichy Normaderm Tri-active: ***** (5 stars)

Vichy Normaderm Hylauspot: ***** (5 stars)

Vichy Aqualia Thermal UV: ** (2 stars)

Left: Triactiv
Centre: Aqualia Thermal UV
Right: Hylauspot 

Far left: Triactiv (without spreading)
Second to the left: Triactive (after spreading once)
Second to the right: Hylauspot (without spreading)
Far right: Hylauspot (after spreading once)

Effects of coffee on acne

Though I am not a coffee addict (I only drink once a while), I enjoy drinking coffee. Especially with milk and sugar. But I noticed some side effects whenever I drink coffee, i.e. I will develop new acne bumps. Devin Mooers and Paula M both wrote articles on whether coffee triggers acne. There are quite a number of bads. Milk, Sugar, Mycotoxins, giving rise to hormonal imbalance, inhibition of glucose metabolism, etc.

There are also counter research being done to show that coffee may reduce acne as it reduces insulin which caffeine does the opposite. Does it mean that decaf coffee (Black and without sugar) is the way to go?

PPP laser clinic

I believe I was one of the initial clients of PPP laser clinic. What attracted me to it was how laser medical facials was made so affordable and I do not have to spend 1.5hrs lying in a facial salon to "clean" my skin.  When I first signed on the package with PPP, it costs about $50 per trip, the nurses will help me clean my face before the doctors start to perform the microdermabrasion before the IPL. The process takes less than 10 mins which I can easily afford the time. As the client base grew, it became less and less an enjoyable experience. There were many "cuts", in order to save time. But I believe the other reason is to cut costs. Overall there were 5 points which I didn't like.

1) Nurses stop cleaning the make up on your face. Instead, you have you do it yourself with the cleansing towel they provided.

2) Nurses stop putting on the conductive gel for the IPL. In order to avoid burning the skin, the doctors does the IPL at some distance away from your skin. I found the light very irritating and I would often tear unconsciously after the IPL even though I am wearing the goggles. It was uncomfortable and I would always ask for a wet cotton to be placed between the googles and my eyes. But still, it is still not very effective.

3) At the end of the treatment, we have to put on the moisturizer on our own, which previously the nurses will do so after they clean the conductive gel away.

4) There are variations in service level between the doctors. Some doctors were more passionate on helping. Some doctors were just going through the motion as if it is a part time job for them.

5) The queue is relatively long. I always spend more time waiting then the treatment itself. The waiting time could be as long as an hour. Then again, it depends on location and weather.

What I like is that the nurses do not hard sell the package unlike the facial salons and has progressed to adopt a point system which one could redeem other types of treatments.

However, I have since stopped going as I don't feel as enjoyable. While it has some effects on the skin, I do not want to cure it at the expense of my eyes which is constantly "exposed" to IPL light. I do not want to develop Photokeratitis or Cataracts. I treasure my eyes more and will never wish to be blinded by regular IPL sessions.

Ma Chérie Moisture Shampoo (Non-sponsored)

I am not a beauty blogger and hence I do not get sponsored. Sometimes when I read online for reviews of products, I am quite skeptical as most of them are sponsored and naturally they will write positive reviews. I am not sponsored, in fact a friend of mine and I analysed this product because of our project on Shampoo.

Personally, I have been using this product for a few months. Previously I tried many other products, which include Sukin Shampoo, which I blogged about in my previous posting. I like Ma Chérie Moisture Shampoo and Conditioner as it has this unique fragrance. The product range is developed by Shiseido and the signature ingredients is Honey Gelee, Champagne, Hydroxyethylurea and Inositol. There are 32 ingredients listed and costs about $2.521 per 500ml, but retails at about $20.50. It is not unusual for the price difference as consumers are paying for marketing, distribution, etc.

A closer look at the selection of surfactant, Ma Chérie uses amphoteric surfactants such as sodium cocoamphoacetate and sodium taurine cocoyl methyltaurate, in combination with traditional SLS. Amphoteric surfactants are supposedly milder than anionic surfactants, but I still feel the cleansing and foaming effect due to SLS.

There several conditioning agents and humectants used such as Arginine, locust bean hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, polyquaterium-10, sorbitol, gly\utamic acid, dimethicone, ammonium lactate, butylene glycol, etc. All in all, these ingredients add up to the claim of "Moisturizing". My hair scalp releases less sebum and my hair smells better due to the nice fragrance. One thing I wish is that the fragrance could last longer. But based on the profile of the fragrance (floral), which is a middle note the scent typically last for less than an hour.

Coping with Rosacea

There are several triggers of rosacea. To name a few, the triggers include alcohol, chocolate, cold weather, facial scrubs, hot baths, saunas, hot beverages, spicy food and sun exposure. I read several forums and articles (e.g. livestrong.com,  and I have summarized the items below. Although I may list some of the items to avoid, I clearly understand how difficult it is to abstain from them. I love spicy sour kimchi soup and it will be terrible to totally not be able to have them. But of course, being aware of the triggers can moderate your intake which will limit the outbreaks of rosacea.

Food To Avoid

1. Spicy Food - red/white/black pepper, chili
2. Sweet Snacks - chocolates, sugary drinks such as bubble tea, aspartame (artificial sweetener) 
3. Hot Drinks - hot tea, hot coffee (let drinks cool down is a way to mitigate)
4. Alcohol
5. Citrus Fruits - pineapples 
6. Dairy products - cheese

Food To Take More

1. Anti-inflammatory - almonds, dark leafy greens
2. Anti-oxidants - grapes, apples, beetroot, broccoli, onions, green-tea
3. Omega 3 Fatty Acids - salmon, sardines

Products To Avoid

1. Irritants - fragrance 
2. Facial scrub
3. Oil-based make-up
4. Toners that contain astringents or alcohol
5. Hydroxy acids (while it may be good for acne, it is not good for rosacea)

Products To Use

1. Mild facial cleanser/soap (wash gently without scrubbing or rubbing) - Livestrong.com indicated "New Jersey dermatologist Dr. Coyle S. Connolly recommends over-the-counter cleansers Cetaphil and La Roche-Posay, while noted skin care expert Paula Begoun gives high ratings to Olay foaming face wash for sensitive skin, the B.Kamins Booster Blue Rosacea Cleanser and the Pevonia Botanica Rosacea line. Purpose Gentle Cleansing Wash and Aveeno Ultra-Calming Foaming Cleanser are also often recommended by dermatologists." I am using Nivea Baby Gentle Head-to-toe wash which is very mild and hypoallergenic to the skin and has natural chamomile and soothing bisabolol. It is free of parabens, alcohol, is skin-friendly pH and makes my skin feel clean and soft after use. 
2. Moisturizers (make sure to keep moisture content on skin >10%) - I use Niks Maple Clinic's Skin repair cream (~ $91.50 for 4.4oz) and Intensive Barrier Repair Cream (~ $45 for 4oz). I love using these as there are no tinging feeling. I kinda love them. The differences in the prices is because the former is made in the US and the latter from Korea. The Skin Repair Cream contains Aloe Barbadensis Leaf that soothe the skin. The Intensive Barrier Repair Cream contains glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) which reduces inflammation and soothes irritation, stimulates adrenal gland to remove bacteria that causes rosacea bumps. 
3. Oil-free Sunblock (at least SPF 15) 
4. Oil-free and Noncomedonegic makeup (list of comedonegic and irritant that you should avoid in products.)

Despite all these measures, Rosacea can be cyclical, such as flaring up before/during menstruation or when one is stressed. Taking flaxseed oil supplements may be good measure because not only it regulates the menstrual cycle and balances hormonal levels, it contains essential fatty acids that contribute to healthy glowing skin and reduces inflammations.

Clinique 3-Step skin care (not recommended for acne)

I have the Clinique 3-step skin care for combination to oily skin. The facial wash has SLS, but not the toner and the moisturizer. It is important to use the clarifying lotion right after the wash to remove any traces of SLS on the face. Although the clarifying lotion has no alcohol in it, it has 0.5% salicylic acid at pH2.9. There is a stinging feel if your skin is very sensitive. I am not sure why it is called a lotion when it is a completely clear and highly fluid solution. Next, the gel moisturizer is critical to restore the moisture in the face after using the clarifying lotion.


I do not recommend for people with rosacea. First, it is pricely. Second, it does not relieve the redness. The salicyclic acid in the clarifying lotion stings the skin and causes the skin to turn even more red. Even with the gel moisturizer, it was not sufficient to soothe the skin. I had to add another layer of Niks's Skin Repair Cream to reduce the sting feeling.

Niks maple clinic

I had been a patronizing Niks Maple clinic since 2008. Before I decided to visit Niks Maple Clinic, I have read forums such as flowerpod, which many reviewers mentioned that there is a famous doctor called Dr Ong. Niks Maple clinic now has a few doctors. I believe they are equally qualified. But Dr Ong is still the most popular one. 

 

I still remember I specially took leave from work and went to the Tampines branch on a day when Dr Ong was on shift. I reached early in the morning at 8.20am. But there was already a snake-like queue starting all the way from the gate. The clinic was not opened yet but the queue was already so long. At around 8.30am sharp, a nurse came and started to give out some number queues. She gave from Queue #1 and stopped at #40. I was at 42nd place... I didn't get a queue number and the nurse told me to come back in the afternoon at 2pm. I asked her if she could give me a queue number for the afternoon slot. But the nurse tried to explain that she cannot and it was the policy, and told me to come back earlier in the afternoon. I was really MAD. I took leave specially to come and I had to waste a whole morning to come again at 2pm? Worst of all, I wasn't guaranteed a visit as I don't know how long the queue would be in the afternoon. Maybe even worst.

 

Anyway, enough of my rambling. I managed to see Dr Ong after a really loooooooong wait. I spend about $200 at her clinic which included the consultation visit and the creams and face wash. I don't have the picts of all the products now because I stopped using the face wash which I found too creamy. I was also given a sunblock lotion which made my face so white and sticky. I particularly like the skin repair cream (4.4oz for $80, can use for 3 months) as it doesn't not have a stingy feeling when I apply on my already-sensitive skin. I had Stieva A (0.01% and 0.1%) which I have to apply alternately every night. I was also given Clindagel (a topical antibiotic approved for the treatment of acne vulgaris). For your info, after the first visit, one could replenish the products without having to see the doctor. Thank goodness. I can't imagine myself queuing again!  

 

Based on my experience with Niks Maple Clinic and the effectiveness of the products used in combating my acne problem, I will rank the value add of Niks Maple Clinic as 6 out of 10, where 10 is considered highest value. When I first started to use the products, I had outbreak. I wasn't surprised because the doctor warned me that that would happen as the face needed to purge out the toxins before recovery could occur. Reflecting back, I think I was kinda gullible to have believed.

 

After almost 4 years, my acne may be more controlled (could be due to other factors like weather and skin care regime) but really very very slowly and I still have outbreaks every month. So, personally, I feel Niks Maple Clinic is quite costly and not that effective. I definitely need a better solution.  

 

Below is my recent facial condition. Above is the photo directly from camera. Apparently the acne doesnt look that bad on photo (a). It actually looks worse-off real life than on picture. Hence, I did some accentuation using Picasa cross process to show you my skin condition. I think (b) is more representative of the actual skin condition. As you can see, it is quite bad.

(a) Direct from camera

 

(b) With some photo editting to contrast the colour.

 

 

Watch what you use (even shampoos)

Recently I started reading about ingredients found in shampoos and it rose my awareness on the usage of sodium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) in soaps and shampoos. It is well researched on how SLS are comedogenic (clogs pores and causes acne). For example, concentrations of SLS as low as 0.5% could cause irritation and concentrations of 10-30% can cause skin corrosion. In addition, SLS can be absorbed through the skin and affects hormones linked to reduced male fertility and increased chances of cancers.

Generally, FDA approves the usage of SLS in products that do not require prolong contact with the skin, such as rinse-off products. Hence, it is commonly found in soaps, shampoos, detergent, stain remover, body wash, etc. If you see SLS in your creams or lotions, beware.

I spent about half hour today in Watsons and I found that almost all the shampoos that are sold on the shelves contain SLSs, this includes shampoos for babies. The only one which I found that does not contain SLS is from Sukin, a brand from Australia. The ingredients include:



Ingredients: Aqua, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cocoamidopropyl Betaine, Decyl Glucoside, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, Equisetum Arvense Extract (Horsetail), Arctium Lappa Extract (Burdock), Urtica Dioica Extract (Nettle), Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Peel Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Vanilla Planifolia Extract, Citric Acid, Linalool,* Limonene.*



Sukin Purifying Shampoo

Not only does Sukin not contain SLS, none of the ingredients used are comedogenic. It could mean two things: One, the company makes a sincere effort not to include ingredients that are comedogenic. Two, the ingredients used are not common and hence, few studies were done on them.

I bought a 1-liter bottle of the Sukin Purifying shampoo and it costs only $31. Relatively reasonably priced. I will use for a few days and update subsequently on the product.


Updates (16 Sep 2013)

After trying for a few weeks, I concluded that Sukin Shampoo is not a very good product. First, it doesn't cleanse very well. Over a few days, I can feel my scalp starts to form this white paste and smells. I read up and found that it is sebum and and is part of a healthy acid mantle. But too much of it build up with sweat and bacteria. The reason the sebum is formed is because the scalp is becoming too dry and the sebum forms an emollient film to reduce the effects. Although Sukin does not contain SLS, it probably contains other cleansing ingredients that may be equally drying. Hence, I decided to spend a little more money to try a new product, Ma Cherie. I will blog about it in a different posting. 

Mentholatum Acnes Creamy Wash

Mentholatum

I tried Mentholatum Acnes Creamy Wash, after a colleague introduced me. It is a relatively affordable product (about $6.90) which can be bought easily in Watsons, Guardian and supermarkets, etc. There are a few types of products which Mentholatum offers, of which the creamy wash is the most popular. Mentholatum Company is founded in 1889 by Albert Alexander Hyde, an American who developed non-prescription health care products. The company was then acquired by Rohto Pharmaceutical Co, a Japanese health care company in 1988.

One will not missed this on the shelves. There is usually some marketing material that indicates the product as "#1 in Japan for daily pimple prevention". There is a little maid logo which is very representative of the brand. On its packaging, it states that it prevents pimples by the following properties:

1. Anti-bacterial: Contains isopropyl methylphenol (o-cymen-5-ol) which penetrates deep into pores to fight against bacteria and prevent pimples.

2. Soothing: Helps sooth redness and skin irritation. Prevents aggravation of pimples.

3. Deep Cleansing: Helps unclogs pores and reduce blemishes by deeply cleansing to remove dirt, oil, impurities and excess sebum.

4. Moisture retention: Contains Vitamin C with moisture retention benefits

5. Anti-oxidation: Contains Vitamin E, an effective anti-oxidant to keep the elasticity of skin

This product is quite good in cleansing. It is able to provide lots of foam by squeezing just a small amount and mixing with water. It is able to remove oil effectively and the face will feel a little tightened after the wash. There may be a stingy feeling when you start to apply any lotion on top of the face after the wash. It may not be suitable for very sensitive dry skin. Lots of moisturizer must be applied after the use of this wash. This is to prevent the skin from becoming too dry. When the skin is too dry, the skin will tend to secrete more oil which will eventually clog the pores again. 

After a few washes (one week), I could feel my pimples are more in controlled and some milder pimples started to dry up and disappear. However, the nodules and cysts remained. Although the creamy wash was not able to remove the nodules and cysts, they did not grow bigger. They are somewhat under control. 

I would recommend this product to those who have slight oily skin. Personally, I think it is very value for money. However, one should not use this product everyday. It tends to dry the skin and will require moisturizer immediately after every wash. Without moisturizer, my skin starts to tighten and will feel uncomfortable, as if it will crack open.

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Follow-up on the above posting:
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I have used it once in a while for a couple of weeks and due to the dryness effect, I have stopped using it for my face. It is a quick cheap product for an immediate effect. However, it is not a long term solution for consumers suffering rosacea. 

When my skin condition spiralled downwards

I never thought that I would ever write a blog again. But I hope readers who have suffered or are suffering severe acne to have a second chance like me. Through this platform, I will pen down the various observations and hope the postings will help you in one way or another.

When I was 21 when I went to US for a student programme, my skin condition spiralled downwards. It was a year long internship cum study programme. Prior to going to US, I had a flawless skin which some friends envied and I had guys chasing after me. Then, I didn't perform any skin care routine. No toners. No moisturisers. No makeup. No sunblock. The only skin care product I used was a face wash. I didn't perform skin care routine, not because of personal choice but because I wasn't aware of the importance of skin care and kinda took my good skin for granted.

I had a box of makeup for my 21st birthday and for the first time, my friends helped me put on makeup. After a long night out with friends, I went home, washed up and immediately went to bed. To note, I washed my face with my usual face wash. No proper cleansing. No toner. No moisturiser after washing. It was my last recollection of having a flawless skin.

Rosacea Fulminans

The dry weather in the US made it worse. My face started to turn a little oily and whiteheads form on my checks, nose and chin. Coupled with stress from work and studies, lack of sleep, poor habit of drinking little water, I started having small breakouts to serious acne vulgaris, which looked like nodules and cysts. It is somewhat like a condition called Rosacea Fulminans. Of course just like most acne victims, I tried to squeeze the pus out, thinking that squeezing the pus would help level off the acne. I tried to hide the acne by applying makeup over them whenever I went out. Applying makeup on top of an aggravated skin and a lack of proper cleansing made my acne spread to even more areas of my face. Worse, it turned dark red. Totally hideous.

Proactive 3-step acne treatment

I bought Proactiv 3-step acne treatment system but it did not seem to help resolve nodules and cysts. I supposed it was for milder acne that are more on the surface such as papules. Not only was Proactive expensive, it made my skin reddish and itchy.

I decided to consult the doctors. I spent about US$400 visiting dermacologists and all I got was antibiotics and a drug called Accutane. There were some improvements initially after eating antibiotics. However, when my stomach started to reject the antibiotics, I stopped having them and acne became worse than before. I used alcohol to clean the acne, thinking that acne could be a result of bacteria growth. Not only was it painful, the skin became even more sensitive.

I went to a period of depression, hiding in my room and refusing to go out. I had this feeling that people were staring at my face and guys stopped chasing after me. My emotional distress probably disrupted my hormonal levels. I cried often and started praying hard, but to no avail.

Subsequently, I will be sharing some of my experiences with various products and services. While it will take time to heal, do not despair. There is a second chance for skin rejuvenation.

de novo - "a new beginning"

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